Why INSKIN Cosmedics Refuses to Go Mass — And What It’s Costing (and Protecting)

While many once-professional brands chase shelf space in Mecca, Adore Beauty and Sephora, Maria Enna-Cocciolone has held her ground. The founder of INSKIN Cosmedics speaks candidly about the commercial cost, industry commitment, and why being professionally exclusive is more than just a distribution model — it’s a philosophy.

In an industry where even the most respected professional skincare brands are making their way into mass retail, Maria Enna-Cocciolone remains immovable. 

The founder of INSKIN Cosmedics and the powerhouse behind brands like O COSMEDICS, NEUROCOSMEDICS, GINGER&ME and DermapenWorld has never taken the bait — not even when doors closed during the pandemic, not even when the retail giants came knocking.

“Our Cosmedical brands were created with the skin expert in mind,” Maria says.

“Unlike most brands, the skin journey is led by the skin expert. Because of this, we have confidently used functional actives in our ranges to give the consumer a results-driven solution with professional guidance.”

That level of guidance, she argues, is exactly what mass platforms like Adore Beauty, Mecca and Sephora can’t offer. “Their staff are not always skin science qualified and cannot maintain the level of expertise cosmedical care demands.”

Maria Enna-Cocciolone

For Maria, the decision to remain professional-only isn’t just about strategy — it’s a deep, values-based commitment. “I am a beauty therapist by trade and as you can imagine I am super protective of our industry, but also skin science in general,” she says. “INSKIN COSMEDICS was built on the pillars of skin science, INSKIN workouts and combined modalities: the perfect concept for thriving skin clinics.”

There’s no sugar-coating it — saying no to retail distribution has a price tag. “The sacrifice is without a doubt mass market branding and product exposure,” Maria explains. “Whilst our brands are incredibly well known, they are also primarily best known to consumers who frequent a clinic with our brand(s) or see us online. This becomes a very niche market compared to us also being in Mecca, Adore, Sephora, department stores, concept pharmacies and online beauty specialists.”

Even with that limitation, Maria stayed firm (especially during the height of COVID-19. “In 2020 due to the pandemic, clinic doors closed) first to close, last to reopen. Going to Mecca and Adore for us was just one phone call away, but I couldn't get past the fact that if we did this, we would destroy our loyal partners and any business they had left.”

The pressure continues today. “It’s absolutely a discussion that comes up every time one of these players contacts us, private equity wants to acquire our brands, or a new person enters the business and doesn't understand why we would make this huge sacrifice.”

So how does she stay grounded?

“My anchor is my commitment to the professional aesthetic industry, its point of difference and future — and just as importantly the consumer journey.”

Maria is honest when asked what’s at risk when professional-only brands go mass: “The risk is more for the professional industry than the brand,” she says. “Once a professional brand enters the mass market it loses its skin expert guidance, the clinic no longer has something next-level or exclusive to offer and as a result they may lose their customer loyalty.”

And it doesn’t stop there. “They often compete on price before service and it's a downward spiral to the bottom once the price wars begin.”

This fierce protection of the professional channel has cultivated long-term loyalty — and trust. “Most skin experts and professionals recognise the sacrifices we make to stay niche and the opportunity our brands bring them, so they are incredibly grateful and in turn committed to us,” she says. “They take the magic I create and transform it into skin confidence and transformations, ensuring that together we grow exceptional partnerships with continued growth, profitability and leading edge offers.”

She points to the growth of O COSMEDICS as proof of concept. “I launched O COSMEDICS in 2010 with the same values and commitment I stand by today… My partners are the first to endorse our efforts publicly. They recognised our sacrifices and efforts during Covid and the fact we didn’t fold and sell openly online or take our brands to Mecca and Adore keeps them forever grateful and loyal.”

So, is this a forever strategy?

“While I continue to drive INSKIN COSMEDICS and our brands, my focus will always be on in-clinic touchpoints and incentives,” Maria confirms.

“My commitment won’t waiver, the how-to will however need to be nimble.”

That means new websites to “draw in the crowds and drive them into clinics,” and investing in technology like virtual consults and click-and-collect — but always with the professional clinic at the centre.

“Our intention moving forward is to further prioritise this connection, and elevate the ways in which we engage, enrich, and nurture connection as industry-leaders,” she says. “Wherever you meet us, we want you to feel this connection instantly… to enjoy the benefits of a brand that is equal parts true to its heart, and the pursuit of continuous evolution.”

And for those considering a professional-only play from the outset?

“Here is one thing I know without any uncertainty,” Maria says. “If you are launching a brand in the Professional Aesthetic market then make sure you are committed to this market, are prepared to be exclusive to them and ultimately not compete with them.”

Because for Maria, the true opportunity still lies in the professional space — if you respect it. “The moment you step into an open market, open selling, be prepared for discounting and the heartache that comes with that when your partners lose sales and profitability to discounting incentives.”