A Formulator’s Perspective: What Changes When Professional Brands Go D2C

As this conversation around D2C, omni-channel and the future of professional beauty has unfolded, one voice kept coming up as essential to include: the formulator.

The person who actually understands what’s in the bottle — and what can and can’t be claimed once that bottle sits in a consumer-facing environment.

So for Part 4, we’re handing the mic to Emma Maguire, The Clinics Formulator, to unpack the discomfort, the myths, and the opportunities brands face when moving into D2C.

“A lot of the panic comes from a feeling of formulation dilution.”

From the perspective of therapists and clinic owners, Emma says much of the fear around D2C isn’t actually about distribution — it’s about identity.

“I think where a lot of the panic is going to come from in brands shifting to a D2C model comes from a feeling of formulation dilution. A lot of clinic-exclusive brands teach therapists to rely on the perception that their formulations are ‘prescribed’ — now how does that tie into a D2C model?”

That perceived contradiction is what leaves the industry feeling uneasy.

“It leaves the professional beauty industry feeling as though they’ve been selling a lie. Which is actually… kind of true.” It’s a confronting statement — but an important one.

Emma Maguire, The Clinics Formulator

“There is no secret playbook of professional-only ingredients.”

Emma explains that this realisation hit her personally when she transitioned into formulation chemistry.

“When I shifted into formulation chemistry, I quickly learned that there was no playbook of specialty ingredients or formulation combinations that are exclusively reserved for the pro beauty industry.”

Formulations can absolutely be advanced. They can be highly active. They can be beautifully engineered.

But:

“That doesn’t change the fact that they are simply cosmetic or ‘cosmeceutical’.”

And that truth matters far more once a brand steps into a D2C environment — where implication, mystery and professional context no longer do the heavy lifting.

“Isn’t it exciting that clients have more opportunity to actually use the products?”

Emma is careful not to dismiss the emotional impact D2C has on therapists — she understands it deeply.

“I very much understand that it feels like a kick in the guts to have clients purchasing at other outlets.”

But she also offers a reframe the industry rarely pauses to consider:

“Is it not exciting to know that your clients have more opportunity to actually use the products you recommend?”. These don’t improve when access is restricted — they improve when systems are built properly.

“Marketing language has to change — it simply won’t hold.”

From a brand-owner perspective, Emma is unequivocal. “If there is going to be a shift to D2C, marketing terms HAVE to be adjusted accordingly.”

She’s referring specifically to language the professional channel has relied on for years: “Terms like ‘professional strength’, ‘clinical grade’, ‘medical grade’ — they will not hold. They’re baseless claims.” In a consumer-facing environment, this language doesn’t protect the brand — it undermines it.

“The professional beauty industry won’t believe in what they’re selling. And let’s be honest — therapists are emotional sellers, selling to emotional buyers.”

Once belief in the branding erodes, so does loyalty. “If brands don’t adapt transparent education into their models, the channel will ultimately dissolve.”

“Increasing reach increases consumer harm — if you’re not prepared.”

Another point Emma is firm on is responsibility.

“If brands are using potent formulations that can cause irritation when used incorrectly, this needs to be considered at length.”

D2C doesn’t just scale sales — it scales misuse. “Increasing reach increases consumer harm. That sounds doom and gloom, but it doesn’t have to be.”

The solution isn’t fear — it’s infrastructure. “Being aware, prepared, and building sturdy, logical systems that protect the brand is the winner here.”

Emma is candid about how seriously she takes this. “This is something I grappled with when I was launching my own skincare brand. I ended up pivoting away from it — honestly, too much work for my liking.” That admission alone speaks volumes.

“Product cohesion is where brands can really stand out.”

One of Emma’s strongest critiques of the current professional landscape is product overload.

“Product cohesion! I’ve been talking about this a lot lately because I’m seeing it everywhere. Clinic brands are too damn busy.”

Too many SKUs. Too many actives. Too many clashes. “Ingredients clash, things are added for the sake of it, and there’s just a lot going on.”

Ironically, Emma believes D2C presents an opportunity — not a threat.

“Professional brands have a real chance here to stand out with system-like skincare.”

Her advice is simple but powerful:

“Set the SKUs up like a roadmap — so you literally cannot go wrong.”

She shares a personal moment that perfectly illustrates the issue:

“I walked into Priceline the other week and I was overwhelmed. And I absolutely know my sh*t. Imagine the average punter?”

From Emma’s perspective, moving into D2C isn’t about watering down formulas.

It’s about growing up as a brand.

• Being honest about what cosmetic formulations are — and aren’t

• Retiring language that no longer stands up

• Building systems that protect users at scale

• Creating cohesive product ranges that guide, not confuse

• Supporting therapists with education — not mythology
  

This conversation was never about choosing sides. It was never about brands versus clinics, D2C versus professional, or dismantling an industry that so many people have built with skill, care and pride. At its core, this series was about telling the truth — calmly, clearly, and without panic.

The truth is that consumer behaviour has changed, cosmetic formulations have legal and scientific boundaries, pricing laws limit control more than many realise, and brands are carrying commercial pressures that often remain unseen. At the same time, therapists and clinic owners are navigating emotional labour, loyalty fatigue, and a genuine fear of losing relevance in a rapidly evolving market. None of these realities cancel each other out — they coexist.

What this series ultimately reveals is that the professional beauty industry is not broken. It is evolving. D2C is not the enemy, transparency is not a threat, and professionalism cannot be defined by exclusivity alone. It lives in expertise, consultation, treatment outcomes, ethical formulation, and education that empowers rather than obscures. It lives in systems that protect people as much as products.

If there is one takeaway worth holding onto, it’s this: we don’t need to panic — we need to mature. And an industry willing to have honest, respectful, sometimes uncomfortable conversations is not in decline. It’s progressing.